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Ridges on Fiskars Brush Axe?
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Good question. Those ridges are just from the factory edge grinding. When I sharpen these kind of tools, I generally just do it with a file (round chainsaw file for inside curves like a hook) and leave a "toothy" edge (micro serrations) that bites on the slashing motion when cutting brush, grasses, weeds, etc....things that can move on impact. Not sure what you're intended use is, but I'd definitely put a microbevel on this edge. It looks like you've got one going, so right on. It'll be stronger and easier to maintain in the field.
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(Midwest Firecraft, I've been pondering this idea ever since your original post... Not sure about this, but could they be using a kind of high-pressure roller to shape the bevel? That might also cause the hardness by work hardening. Probably it's grinding as other's have said, but also wanted to throw the idea of rolling/compression out there. I can imagine a press punching out the shape, a roller forming bevel. The benefit of rolling it is that you wouldn't generate any dust from grinding. Any tooling marks on the backside at all?)
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Originally posted by Midwest Firecraft View PostInteresting. I could not file them off with a double mill bastard or my diamond stones. Intended use is small brush clearing. Thank you for your reply.
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I love my Fiskars brush axe. But holy smokes can you generate some wicked speed when swinging it in anger on some stubborn branches. I've had to make an effort to not hold onto the object I'm cutting. A little miscalculation and off with a digit. I know a traditional style axe can easily do the same thing. But I dont find I'm generating the same incredible speed as I do with the Fiskars brush axe, which may lead to mistakes.
Food for thought.
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