Ridges on Fiskars Brush Axe?

[Midwest Firecraft]

Just got this Brush Axe. It was so dull I could rub my finger along the edge. I was having difficulty with the edge grinding along and noticed these ridges under the coating. They make it hard as hell to sharpen and there only on one side of the blade, are they a defect?

[4estTrekker]

Good question. Those ridges are just from the factory edge grinding. When I sharpen these kind of tools, I generally just do it with a file (round chainsaw file for inside curves like a hook) and leave a "toothy" edge (micro serrations) that bites on the slashing motion when cutting brush, grasses, weeds, etc....things that can move on impact. Not sure what you're intended use is, but I'd definitely put a microbevel on this edge. It looks like you've got one going, so right on. It'll be stronger and easier to maintain in the field.

[Midwest Firecraft]

Interesting. I could not file them off with a double mill bastard or my diamond stones. Intended use is small brush clearing. Thank you for your reply.

[Heavy Duty]

Yea those are for sure tool marks from the grinding process. I've got one of these tools, works great in my boat to cut willow.

[jamieS]

(Midwest Firecraft, I've been pondering this idea ever since your original post... Not sure about this, but could they be using a kind of high-pressure roller to shape the bevel? That might also cause the hardness by work hardening. Probably it's grinding as other's have said, but also wanted to throw the idea of rolling/compression out there. I can imagine a press punching out the shape, a roller forming bevel. The benefit of rolling it is that you wouldn't generate any dust from grinding. Any tooling marks on the backside at all?)

[Scoutergriz]

Interesting. I could not file them off with a double mill bastard or my diamond stones. Intended use is small brush clearing. Thank you for your reply.

they were probably made when profiling the blade prior to hardening so now they're hardened too, I've had several tools with the same marks, they do eventually wear off with repeated sharpening and don't really affect the performance. Like 4est I do the same- sharpen my large cutting tool with a mill file to leave some grooving on the taper, then touch up the actual cutting edge with a stone, once the cutting edge penetrates the grooves seem to help make the blade sticky enough to prevent some of the bounce back common with green woods like alder thickets.

[Midwest Firecraft]

Well I sent the pics to Fiskars just to ask them if that was normal. I got an automated response saying they received my e-mail and it could take 1.5-2 weeks for response. About two weeks later I got an e-mail that said a new brush axe was on the way. I wasn't expecting that!

[Midwest Firecraft]

Any tooling marks on the backside at all?)

No, just on one side.

[FlytoCamp]

I love my Fiskars brush axe. But holy smokes can you generate some wicked speed when swinging it in anger on some stubborn branches. I've had to make an effort to not hold onto the object I'm cutting. A little miscalculation and off with a digit. I know a traditional style axe can easily do the same thing. But I dont find I'm generating the same incredible speed as I do with the Fiskars brush axe, which may lead to mistakes.
Food for thought.

[Midwest Firecraft]

I'm very impressed as well. Great to have a relatively inexpensive tool you can effectively remove brush for trails or for clearing an area you are felling trees.