My toboggan build thread... with pictures!

[Hamingredient]

Early this year, before 2020 fell completely apart, I decided to build a toboggan for an upcoming February Boundary Waters trip. I liked the idea of making it myself, but I had never built anything like this before... so I decided the logical thing to do would be to build two of them; one for me, and one for my trip partner.

I read as much as I could find online, and got especially useful information via email from Dave at Lure of the North and Chris at Black River Sleds, so I am deeply indebted to them. The final design of my toboggans shares many similarities to theirs. And because I can't sew, I bought some softgoods to outfit my toboggan from them, too.

I wanted to use UHMW-PE (Ultra High Molecular Weight Polyethylene plastic) for the base of my toboggan, and I found a plastic supply company here in the Twin Cities that sold me some 1/4" thick pieces cut to size, 15" wide and 10ft long...

[Hamingredient]

Since ash is "traditional", I wanted to use that for the crossbars.

I found some at Fleet Farm, of all places, and cut the "blanks" to size on the tablesaw. They're 5/4" wide x 3/4" thick. I cut several extras and tried to choose pieces that had a good, tight end grain. I also figured I'd screw something up, so better to have more!

Ash is the wood of choice for toboggans because... Tradition! by Hamingredient, on Flickr

Crossbar "blanks" are cut to 5/4" x 3/4", and 15" long. The grooved pieces are for the front end of the toboggan at the top of the curl. by Hamingredient, on Flickr

Test fitting Crossbar #1, which fits over the front edge of the toboggan at the top of the curl by Hamingredient, on Flickr

[Hamingredient]

I used a 3/8" roundover bit to ease the top edges of the crossbars...

A quick 'n dirty (dirty!!) router fence for rounding over the crossbar edges by Hamingredient, on Flickr

Top edges of crossbars eased w/ a 3/8" roundover bit by Hamingredient, on Flickr

Crossbar #1 for the top of the curl, edges rounded over by Hamingredient, on Flickr

[Hamingredient]

I opted to taper my toboggan blanks slightly to a traditional "coffin" shape, but I neglected to take any pictures of that step. It was a fairly straightforward procedure with a track saw; I don't think I'd like to try it any other way.

Here's the cut blank, crossbar locations marked out with painter's tape. Also test fitting a nice sled duffel from BRS...

Toboggan duffel from Black River Sleds by Hamingredient, on Flickr

[Hamingredient]

At this point, it was actually handy to be building two toboggans at the same time...

Because each crossbar ends up being a slightly different length on the tapered bed, I could pair up the corresponding bars from each toboggan respectively, and use a 5/8" Forstner bit to drill/cut running line channels...

Crossbars are paired up; marking locations for running line grooves. It's convenient to be building two sleds at the same time, for this part by Hamingredient, on Flickr

Grooves for the running lines are cut with a 5/8" Forstner bit in the paired crossbars by Hamingredient, on Flickr

Crossbars paired, holes for running line grooves cut with 5/8" Forstner bit. by Hamingredient, on Flickr

[Hamingredient]

Eased the edges with a 3/16" roundover bit, and the crossbars are done (well, except for final sanding)!

Running line groove holes eased w/ a 3/16" roundover bit in a palm router. This keeps the running lines from wearing or cutting on a sharp edge. by Hamingredient, on Flickr

[Hamingredient]

Apply the oil of your choice. I used Tung oil, which does not cure well in an uninsulated garage in January... I found a secret spot to finish the job in the basement at work.

Tung oil doesn't cure well in the cold... I found a heated space to apply more coats. by Hamingredient, on Flickr

Oiled and ready for assembly by Hamingredient, on Flickr

Untitled by Hamingredient, on Flickr

[Hamingredient]

At this point, all that's left is assembly!

I used stainless steel hardware and followed Lure of The North's assembly instructions closely -- they've got a great manual on their website and a couple of very helpful YouTube videos out there. Kudos and big props to LOTN for providing such amazing and excellent help!!

Stainless steel hardware and 5mm climbing accessory cord for the running lines by Hamingredient, on Flickr

Assembly time! Thanks again to Lure of the North for great instructions! by Hamingredient, on Flickr

Front end grab handle. by Hamingredient, on Flickr

[Hamingredient]

I bought a tarp and a top bag from Black River Sleds, and Chris was kind enough to supply me with a tump and lashing kit as well. We used 5mm climbing cord for the running lines.

The whole thing came together nicely, and the sleds performed beautifully on their maiden voyage in the Boundary Waters this February!

All dressed up with nowhere to go... yet. by Hamingredient, on Flickr

IMG_1502 by Hamingredient, on Flickr

[Lonelake]

Great build and explanation. Thanks for posting! Trek on!

LL

[Heavy Duty]

Talk about paying attention to detail! What a beautiful sled. UHMWPE is a fantastic material for a sled build, perfect balance of durability, friction co-efficient and price. You should be proud of that sled!

[Hamingredient]

Thanks, fellas. I am pleased with how it turned out and I look forward to having an excuse to build another, someday!

[Ray1984]

Nice job, I built an HDPE 8 footer a few years ago. Now I'm looking at building a longer one. I like the idea of the nut that holds from the top, we used screws and counter sunk them from the bottom, but i suspect these would have better holding power.

[Hamingredient]

Nice job, I built an HDPE 8 footer a few years ago. Now I'm looking at building a longer one. I like the idea of the nut that holds from the top, we used screws and counter sunk them from the bottom, but i suspect these would have better holding power.

Thank you! Yeah, those tee nuts on the end are what LOTN recommends. If those ever blow out on you, I'm guessing you'd have other, bigger problems to think about as well!

[Hamingredient]

I ordered the stainless fasteners for this project from McMaster-Carr. Here are the part numbers for future reference: