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I own a Pomoly T1 Flame stove. It is a reasonable stove, not great, but has worked for me. I got mine with a 3M long pipe which gave a very generous amount of clearance for the top of my tent. Last winter I decided to cut off a section of the titanium stove pipe and make a baffle with it. I first made 2 baffles using cheaper .005" steel sheet and used it on a couple of trips. I used those to refine the fit and confirmed it would work. I ended up with the following design which treated me well on my 2 week trek last winter. I cut about 12" off the end of my stove pipe to make the baffle which still leaves the pipe more than 2' above the top of the tent.
Here is the stove, set up, with no baffle. Note the door is on the left and the pipe is on the right.
When you take the lid/top off you can see that there is a lip around the interior edge under to stiffen the side plates.
I was able, in three folds on two edges, to form the following shape which generously matches the shape of the lip on the sides. These folds are pretty easy to do with my cheap sheet metal break. My folds never got very crisp, don't worry, the next picture explains why that is not critical.
Since the metal of the baffle has some give I am able to push over the lip of the stove. You can see how it wraps all the way around the lip. When I put the lid on it will pin this in place and squeeze everything tighter.
The front of the baffle interacts with the front edge of the stove so there was several cycles of me testing the fit and trimming of the parts that were preventing the front edge of the baffle sealing(loosely) along the inside of the front panel. You can also see one of two screws I put in the front side to hold the flexible baffle down. That way if I put a lot of firewood in the stove it wont push the baffle too high and block the path of the smoke.
I also put some screws in the ribs under the lid to keep the thin sheet metal from blocking the flow of smoke. I added longer bolts to the stove pipe adapter to hold the baffle off of that area.
Here is everything assembled. Note how that stove pipe is now at the front(left) side of the stove. The air flow now comes in the front door, proceeds to the rear, turns 180 degrees, runs along the underside of the lid, and then out the chimney.
Here is the baffle stored inside the stove, it does not interfere with the folding.
With the baffle in place I estimate I go through about 1/2 - 2/3 of the firewood. The lid is much hotter and I can boil water on most parts of it. The lid is warped so the boils are not fast but I don't have to crowd the pots around the pipe anymore.
If you have a Pomoly stove, you might notice several modifications I have made to make it more reliable for winter camping in cold ( below -15C/0F) deep snow conditions. Maybe I will write about those later. I also built a shelf which I will share when I have a moment.
Hope someone finds that useful. I would love to see other peoples modifications.
Here is the stove, set up, with no baffle. Note the door is on the left and the pipe is on the right.
When you take the lid/top off you can see that there is a lip around the interior edge under to stiffen the side plates.
I was able, in three folds on two edges, to form the following shape which generously matches the shape of the lip on the sides. These folds are pretty easy to do with my cheap sheet metal break. My folds never got very crisp, don't worry, the next picture explains why that is not critical.
Since the metal of the baffle has some give I am able to push over the lip of the stove. You can see how it wraps all the way around the lip. When I put the lid on it will pin this in place and squeeze everything tighter.
The front of the baffle interacts with the front edge of the stove so there was several cycles of me testing the fit and trimming of the parts that were preventing the front edge of the baffle sealing(loosely) along the inside of the front panel. You can also see one of two screws I put in the front side to hold the flexible baffle down. That way if I put a lot of firewood in the stove it wont push the baffle too high and block the path of the smoke.
I also put some screws in the ribs under the lid to keep the thin sheet metal from blocking the flow of smoke. I added longer bolts to the stove pipe adapter to hold the baffle off of that area.
Here is everything assembled. Note how that stove pipe is now at the front(left) side of the stove. The air flow now comes in the front door, proceeds to the rear, turns 180 degrees, runs along the underside of the lid, and then out the chimney.
Here is the baffle stored inside the stove, it does not interfere with the folding.
With the baffle in place I estimate I go through about 1/2 - 2/3 of the firewood. The lid is much hotter and I can boil water on most parts of it. The lid is warped so the boils are not fast but I don't have to crowd the pots around the pipe anymore.
If you have a Pomoly stove, you might notice several modifications I have made to make it more reliable for winter camping in cold ( below -15C/0F) deep snow conditions. Maybe I will write about those later. I also built a shelf which I will share when I have a moment.
Hope someone finds that useful. I would love to see other peoples modifications.
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